Day 5: Los Mochis to Mazatlán

Naomi:
We just had the most incredible dinner: Molcajetes (chicken, shrimp, tomatoes, chiles, onions and queso de Chihuahua cooked in a bowl made of volcanic rock—like guacamole is made in, but HOT--the Aztecs used to cook like this) with handmade corn tortillas, and Teacapan (grilled fish, the best chile relleno I’ve ever had, and something like a shrimp quesadilla that was even more spectacular). Plus, we were served by the nicest people, Gladis and Jose, who recommended our yummy food.
Jose y Gladis

Jose made tasty salsa in a (cool) volcanic bowl at our table. Gladis was so kind and authentic to everyone who came in to the restaurant (the young boy selling roses, someone delivering a package, and all the customers). There were very cool dragonflies all around. Eventually we moved inside and were serenaded with Cielito Lindo by a full band.
Now we’re in our room and can hear the sound of the waves outside our window.
We saw an exit called “Piggy Back.” I promise I’m not lying!
These signs were visible all through Sinaloa: DeKalb “an angel in your earth.”

We also saw Monsanto and Asgrow and Pioneer (DuPont)… lots of genetic modification and pesticide action imported from the USA. But, it has been interesting as we drive south to watch the landscape become less arid and the residences become more finished and colorful. I drove all day and according to Jose I started seeing things. I swear there was a Vacero on horseback on the Autopista.
Also, we saw this fascinating sign:

Unfortunately, we didn’t get to meet the horses!

Jose:
With a restful night sleep in Los Mochis it was time to get back on the 15 south to Mazatlan, one of the beach resort capitols of the world. I forgot to mention yesterday that we had crossed states from Sonora to Sinaloa. Los Mochis is the most northern city in Sinaloa. It’s a big deal to mention as there is a lot of pride within Mexican states. Imagine the western US coast starting from Washington state to California, Sonora being Washington, Sinaloa/Oregon and Nayarit-Jalisco/California. The western Mexican states along the coast are for the most part evenly divided (so what happened to sharing the west coast evenly, Cali?).

Naomi did most of the driving and with a couple of snacks in the car, we were good to go the whole way. However right off the bat, we were stuck on a 5 km stretch behind this double bed truck for one hour. Coño!

But there was consolation along the way. We were witness to some of the most beautiful skies you could possibly imagine. Naomi had me pull out the camera repeatedly as we wowed and oohed as the landscape and sky changed before our eyes. The 263 km we traveled became wetter and greener. The weather also cooled to a chilling 85 degrees.
The scenery gets wetter...

and greener.

By the time we got to Mazatlan we were ready for a room and some food. Naomi being the consummate traveler decided to take us to the end of the road into a pier where locals tend to fish, swim and eat.

We drove into the Zona Dorado of Mazatlan where some of the best hotels were supposed to be. We found a hotel on Avenida Camaron called Luna Palace. It was modest and very wet. Supposedly it rains everyday at about the same time. Our room’s decor was out of the 80s, so much so that i saw Crocket and Tubbs checking out. I guess we were two decades too late getting here. But the concierge made it up to us by recommending some of the best Mexican food on the planet. Los Zarapes restaurant served up some of the best tacos and Pacifico mixed with salt, chili and lime. Mmmm. Double mmmm (thanks Carmen). We had two waiters, Gladis and Jose (tocayo). Jose made the salsa in a big earthen bowl right in front of us adding fresh cilantro, roasted peppers and tomatoes and onions and crushing and mixing them lovingly with a stone mallet. We had him make it medium to hot. Jose also recommended his favorite dish Molcajetes which consists of shrimp, chicken and beef in a tomato sauce sizzling in an earthen bowl with local cheese melting into the broth.
Molcajete

Fresh and warm hand made corn tortillas came with the meal. We added an extra dish Teacapan which consisted of a chili relleno, a shrimp taco that’s to die for and a fish that I forgot the name of. Teacapan

By the end of the night the local mariachis talked us into letting them sing Cielito Lindo for Naomi. Nice and loud right in our laps.

Gladis was such a hit with us that we ended up inviting her to Queretaro. Thanks for making us feel welcome in Mazatlan. She definitely had state pride. I know this because she said so. Next stop Guadalajara 500km east.