Day 6: GUADALAJARA

Naomi:
Lovely breakfast at La Cebolla Morada (see pic). A little meditation poolside, with the sound of waves. Felix, nuestra tortuga, pointed the way south/southeast and the terrain changed multiple times, from Oceanside to swampy, to lush green, to mountainous and lush, to mountainous and rocky/arid, to mountainous and jungle-esque, to mountainous and Euro style… to Guadalajara—a happening city with a wacky, energetic vibe. The peeps are super varied and styled… lots of emo/vampire looks. The city is gorgeous! Beautiful stone architecture, arcades, large promenades and squares full of people enjoying the ambiance, lots of public art in the form of fountains, statues and large modern sculptures, and incredible clouds overhead. We went to a bizarre restaurant for dinner… and wondered if it was haunted. As soon as we got inside our camera stopped working, which is a crying shame, because the building was so beautiful with classic chandeliers, arches, and frescoes. Jose will fill you in on all the gossip from that locale… but our camera worked again immediately after we left! (cue in Twilight Zone music)
Naomi and her Omelettes

Felix our guide tortuga

Jose:
Leaving Mazatlan, we first had breakfast at the Purple Onion, a local eatery with live music and festive Mexican décor (for the tourists). Omelettes and coffee with the ever present salsa roja and verde. (Los Zarapes didn’t serve breakfast-heartache).
View from our room.

The roads back to the main autopista are usually slow going due to local traffic and businesses. But when we get on that stretch of 'paid' highway, its smooth sailing. If you’re ever thinking about driving down the coast here are two tips I highly recommended: drive on the toll roads and drive during the day, no lights at night. As ‘paid’ as these roads are you still have to be alert and your mind can’t go on autopilot like on most US Highways. You have be defensive. But still, the roads are really good. The was so much beautiful scenery on our way to Guadalajara, one of the major cities of Mexico, think Chicago, New York, LA, etc. Huge rambling metropolitan hub for those who want their urban fix.
Autopista

The landscape again began transforming before our eyes. It became hillier, greener and somewhat junglier. We stopped in Tepic, a small city on the way to Guadalajara. We didn’t explore much just stopped at one of the million Pemex stations along the way. So far Pemex rules the gas market in Mexico, but I think its because the government subsidizes its gas (I think I mentioned before, gas is about $1 cheaper). The stations have gas attendants who check your oil and tires. Very modern and efficient.
Pemex

Leaving Tepic the roads got even better (think Audubon). There are speed limits, but like the Audubon most people sail along at 90 to 100 or even faster. We were modest, going 75, 80. This stretch of highway was incredible because it began to go through the mountains. At points if felt like I was driving through New England/Vermont.
Changing Landscape



When we got to Guad., we were greeted to a very modern metropolitan city with splashes of green everywhere. We drove down avenida Vallarte to El Centro Historico. We found a clean and inexpensive hotel in the very heart. We walked around for a bit before dinner, exploring the bustling streets with the million plus people. There were so many historic buildings that I wouldn’t even know where to start (it really feels like you’ve been transported in time). The people on the streets were an eclectic bunch, lots of Goth but also punk, urban trendy, etc. And all different types coming in from the local areas to have a fun time in this part of town. Lots of businesses and traffic (small narrow streets where people will double park right in front of you to pick up their dry cleaning). But for the most part El Centro was festive and fun.
Jose among the Guadalajarans

More of Guadalajara

...even more!


Dinner was interesting because we entered a restaurant (I’d like to call the ‘ghost restaurant’) with some of the most beautiful décor (think Spanish castle). What we thought were other restauranteurs were actually the staff having cookies and milk and wrapping things.
The ceiling must have been 50 feet if not more with paned glass windows and marble floors. The food was nothing to write home about (so I won’t-sorry foodies) but the hospitality was wonderful. The clincher for me was the 6’4” piano player with the waxed moustache. He asked for requests. He played some Gershwin and Duke but the coup de grace was when he played the 70s hit ‘Gloria.’ Seemed like an oddball piece to throw in there. I walked over and asked him about the odd song seleciton. He said in a hoarse whisper that it was a serenade to the hostess Gloria. Madly in love he said looking longingly over my shoulder then biting his finger. I looked over and saw Gloria (a beauty) standing by the door trying to avoid looking over our way. This was literally Beauty and the Beast playing itself out. The piano player and I talked for about half an hour. Great guy but obsessed with unrequited love. I hope she loves him back.
Anyway, tomorrow we’re off to what we’ll call home for the next 10 months, QUERETARO!